Using a jigsaw I cut out all the parts that were marked out and described in the previous post. A jigsaw makes this job a lot easier but it could be done quite easily with a hand panel saw, or my favourite, the Japanese dozuki pull saw. They are simply brilliant to use, very fast, accurate and leave a fine finish. I used this saw later to cut the Paulownia framing.
Dozuki pull saw
The late 19th century NZ kauri table I saved from going down in my employer’s old building that was demolished, and restored has proved to be very useful! I believe it was used as a board room table and later in the lunch room. Due to it’s dimensions it couldn’t be removed so I dismantled it and brought home in the car. Aren’t those legs lovely? Ha-ha, the table legs I mean! It can seat 10 comfortably or 12 with much less elbow room. But I’ve digressed, this is about building a Goat….
After cutting out, the parts all had to be planed down to the marked lines. A block plane is what you need for this job. Here I am shaping one of the side panels.
More shaping with the block plane. This is one of the bulkheads.
The next job was to join the side panels together using a simple butt-strap join. Again, the nice flat, long table came in handy for this job. Care is needed to prevent the epoxy joint from sliding, so small panel pins are used to hold the joint. The pins are later removed when the epoxy has cured. As you can see, I’ve employed a hi-tech clamping device while the joint cures! The blue stuff under the house bricks is just masking tape to make the cleanup easier.
This is the finished butt-strap join which joins the sides. There is a reason the butt strap does not extend to the edges!
The flip side of the join. I’m happy with that!
Here I’ve started to build the frame around the #4 bulkhead. No screws are used. Again, if you don’t use screws, you need a method to stop the jointed parts from sliding all over the place.
This is a close-up of how I do it. I mark a pencil line which is used to line up the framing timber following the application of epoxy to both mating faces. Then simply tap a small panel pin (depth about 3mm) into the ply or the framing timber. Then snip off the pin so that only 1mm protrudes. Then when the joint is made, it WILL not slip! This works very well on soft Paulownia, but with harder timbers you’ll need to tap the joint with a mallet to bed in the pins.
I’ve completed the Paulownia framing of three bulkheads. Here’s two of them, bulkheads 1 and 4. Bulkhead #3 is also completed. One more, plus the transom to go.
Bulkhead number two being glued up. This bulkhead supports the rear of the front seat/deck. It will have a big hole cut out to make it even lighter and make an access port for the mast base and a general storage area.
The next task after the bulkheads will be to fix the chine logs to the sides in readiness for joining the hull parts together. The chinelogs are simply a method of fixing the sides to the bottom and in this case are 45X19mm Paulownia. Other methods use stitch and glue, followed by epoxy fillets and glass tape. The chine-log method is pretty simple and I’ll show you that next time.
To learn more about Paulownia timber, click this link.
That’s it, it’s beer o’ clock, so until next time….. If I don’t see you through the week, I’ll see you through the window!